Expeditions
The Himalayan giants encountered in Nepal can be added to the legendary climbs that have taken place on the eight of the highest summits of the world that are in Nepal? Indeed, the top of the world is on the Tibetan Nepalese border, known as Sagarmatha under its south face and Chomolongma on the northern side. But Mt. Everest as westerners have named it barely keeps under its shadow all the other mountains above 8,000 meters and only its prestige as the highest makes it a dream destination to all climbers in the world.
There are three seasons for mountaineering in Nepal. The permission season from April to early June was once the only season during which expeditions climbed major peaks. In the 1950s, all expeditions were in the lull before the storm period that occurs between the end of the winter winds and the beginning of the monsoon snow. Cold and high winds drove back the Swiss expedition to Mt Everest in 1952 when they attempted to climb the mountain in the autumn. It was not until 1973 that an expedition success fully climbed Everest in autumn.
Now the autumn or post monsoon season of September and October is a period of many successful expeditions. In 1979 the ministry of tourism established a season for winter mountaineering. It is bitterly cold at high elevations from November to February, but recent advances in equipment technology have allowed several teams to accomplish what was thought before to be impossible a winter ascent of a Himalayan peak. Climbing during the monsoon, from June to august, is not practical from the Nepal side, though the north face of Everest has been climbed during august.
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Some Guidelines For Expeditions in Nepal Asking for climbing permission:
- The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of tourism, Mountaineering Division or Himalayan Leaders.
- Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)
- Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
- Approach route map.
Himalayan Leaders trek P. Ltd. is a government recognized trekking company of Nepal is essential as a local liaison medium to work the expedition in Kathmandu (Nepal) as per mountaineering Expedition Regulations. Such Appointment can be made prior to or after getting climbing permission from the Ministry of Tourism.
Payment of Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The leader of the expedition team is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within TWO MONTHS of the date of permission. In case of Failure of the payment of royalty within two months such permission may be CANCELLED.
The climbing permit fee (Royalty) must be paid directly to the Ministry of Tourism or Himalayan Leaders, in its favor either by bank draft of bank transfers, Payable i convertible foreign currency.
Preparation in Nepal for Expedition Import of foods and equipment: Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.
Communication Equipment:
As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period. Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication. For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism which are latter to be sent to other concerned government offices.
Filming or Documentary:
Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know your requirement, we will send all the details and the cost of the filming that you are going to shoot.
The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules effective from 1996 Spring"
Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
Climbing Route: South East Ridge (Normal Route)
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
25,000
|
12,500
|
6,250
|
| Two Climbers |
40,000
|
20,000
|
10,000
|
| Three Climbers |
48,000
|
24,000
|
12,000
|
| Four Climbers |
56,000
|
28,000
|
14,000
|
| Five Climbers |
60,000
|
30,000
|
15,000
|
| Six Climbers |
66,000
|
33,000
|
16,500
|
| Seven Climbers |
70,000
|
35,000
|
17,500
|
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum) 300 200 100 Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 8,000 m (except Mt. Everest)
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
5,000
|
2,500
|
1250
|
| Two Climbers |
6,000
|
3,000
|
1500
|
| Three Climbers |
7000
|
3,500
|
1,750
|
| Four Climbers |
8000
|
4000
|
2000
|
| Five Climbers |
8500
|
4250
|
2125
|
| Six Climbers |
9000
|
4500
|
2250
|
| Seven Climbers |
10000
|
5,000
|
2500
|
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum) 1500 1000 500
Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,501m to 7999m
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
1500
|
750
|
375
|
| Two Climbers |
1800
|
900
|
450
|
| Three Climbers |
2100
|
1050
|
525
|
| Four Climbers |
2400
|
1200
|
600
|
| Five Climbers |
2600
|
1300
|
650
|
| Six Climbers |
2800
|
1400
|
700
|
| Seven Climbers |
3000
|
1500
|
750
|
One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum) 400 250 150 Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 6501m to 6999m (Except Mt. Amadablam)
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
1000
|
500
|
250
|
| Two Climbers |
1200
|
600
|
300
|
| Three Climbers |
1400
|
700
|
350
|
| Four Climbers |
1600
|
800
|
400
|
| Five Climbers |
1800
|
900
|
450
|
| Six Climbers |
1900
|
950
|
475
|
| Seven Climbers |
2000
|
1000
|
500
|
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum) 300 200 100
Name of Mountain: Amadablam (6812m)
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | |
|---|---|---|
| Spring/Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
1000
|
500
|
| Two Climbers |
1200
|
600
|
| Three Climbers |
1400
|
350
|
| Four Climbers |
1600
|
400
|
| Five Climbers |
1800
|
450
|
| Six Climbers |
1900
|
475
|
| Seven Climbers |
2000
|
500
|
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum) 300 200
Height of Mountain: 6,500m or Below
| No. Of Climbers | Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| One Climber |
400
|
200
|
100
|
| Two Climbers |
500
|
250
|
125
|
| Three Climbers |
600
|
300
|
150
|
| Four Climbers |
700
|
350
|
175
|
| Five Climbers |
800
|
400
|
200
|
| Six Climbers |
900
|
450
|
225
|
| Seven Climbers |
1000
|
500
|
250
|
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
Refundable Garbage Deposit
Mt. Everest US S 4000 or equivalent ( local currency)
Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent (local currency)
All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent (local currency)For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the Royalty in US $ to change the ascent route. Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.
