Mera Peak is the highest permitted trekking peak of Nepal. It stands to the south of Everest. The peak dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent on 20 May 1953.
The Mera Peak trek starts from Kathmandu with a drive to Jiri and a trek to Lukla at 2800m. This is a good way to begin as it helps develop physical fitness. And this trip is excellent for altitude acclimatization. But most of the people take a flight to Lukla and stay there overnight.
From Lukla to Chutanga we walk through rhododendron and pine forests. Crossing the Zatra-La pass the trek is very steep but the reward is a view of Cho Oyu and the number Himal. Cho Oyu is the world’s 6th highest mountain. We now descend into the Mera Valley. From Chatrabu, after a walk of about around one and half hours, we get the best view of Mera’s South, Central, and North peaks.
Then we go through more forests, of rhododendron, bamboo, and pine to reach Kothe (Hinku Khola). From Kothe, the trekking is easier to Khare Base Camp, at 5000m. From Khare to Mera-La it is steep, but from Mera–La to our high camp at 5800m is easier. But we must take care as there are many deep crevasses. We will follow the ‘standard route to the summit, reaching the Central peak and, perhaps, the slightly higher North summit.
There are many other routes to the peak, but none of them are easy, some requiring the crossing of high and difficult passes (though, of course, this adds to the true mountaineering experience). But in the end, all the effort and hard work pay off as Mera provides one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal, with a panoramic view of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse to the east, and Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Kangtega to the west. Similarly, Everest is seen to the north over the massive unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge. Under favorable conditions, it is possible to climb the peak and descend to Base Camp on the same day.
How Difficult Is Mera Peak Climbing?
The Mera Peak climbing is considered suitable for beginners. It is a moderately difficult mountain to climb. It is classified as a non-technical climb and requires only basic mountaineering skills.
However, its summit lies at an elevation of 6,476 meters (21,247 feet) above sea level. Climbers will have to ascend and descend on various terrains including snow slopes. Therefore, the climb has its challenges. Various components make Mera Peak climbing difficult. Let’s take a look at these components:
Technical factors
Mera Peak is non-technical but a challenging climb. One does not need to have technical skills but needs basic mountaineering skills. While climbing the peak, you will have to ascend and descend on icy slopes and steep sections. Similarly, there are also many deep crevasses.
Basic mountaineering skills are enough to conquer these difficult sections. But there are climbing sections on Mera Peak that require technical skills. So, climbers need to be comfortable using equipment like ice axes, ice screws, fixed ropes, and crampons.
Elevation
The Mera Peak sits at an elevation of 6,461 meters. The oxygen level reduces as you move higher altitude. Because of the high altitude, there are chances of climbers getting altitude sickness. It is one of the major difficulties of Mera Peak climbing. Therefore, acclimatization is crucial for avoiding altitude sickness.
Acclimatization helps to adjust your body to the higher elevation. It also reduces the risk of altitude sickness. Likewise, you have to be careful about the altitude sickness symptoms. It is best to take precautions but if symptoms appear, you should take prompt action.
Trekking Distance
Another difficulty of Mera Peak climbing is the trekking distance. The whole trek takes around 19 days including a proper acclimatization period. The approximate distance of the whole climb is 125 km (78 miles) approximately. Therefore, you will have to walk around 6-7 hours a day on average during the trek.
It will be quite difficult to do without proper physical and mental preparation. The climb will push your physical endurance and stamina. Proper training and exercise help you to be prepared. It adds to the challenge of Mera Peak climbing.
Best Season For Mera Peak Climbing
The best season for Mera Peak climbing is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) season. Here are a few reasons these two seasons are the best for the Mera Peak climbing:
Spring (March to May)
Spring is an ideal season for Mera Peak climbing because of its clear visibility and warm weather. It falls in pre-monsoon season so there is a low chance of rainfall. The temperature around the region ranges between 15°C to 20°C. However, during the morning and nighttime, the temperature at higher altitudes can drop to -8°C.
Another reason for climbing Mera Peak during spring is the blooming forests. The trail of the peak passes through rhododendron forests. Thus, you can see the whole forest blooming in red, pink, and white colors. The flowers also emit a sweet fragrance. Likewise, you can see the colorful Himalayan wildflowers in full bloom.
Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is another ideal season of the year for Mera Peak climbing. The weather and temperature are warm as well as favorable. It falls in the post-monsoon season. Hence, most of the dust and pollution is washed away by rain. The forests, waterfalls, and rivers also all look fresh and nourished.
Most of the big festivals of Nepal fall in the autumn season like Dashain, Tihar, and Chhath. You can enjoy the festive atmosphere while on the climb. The visibility is exceptionally excellent during the season. So, you can enjoy the full panoramic mountain view from the summit. The temperature ranges around 10°C to 18°C during daytime and can drop to minus during morning and nighttime.
Training and Preparation For Mera Peak Climbing
You have to be prepared physically and mentally for the Mera Peak climb. Although a moderate trek, it is going to be challenging. So proper preparation plays a crucial role in the success of your Mera Peak climbing. You can train and exercise to prepare yourself.
You can enhance your endurance level by running, cycling, climbing, and hiking. Similarly, you can also do strength training that focuses on your leg, core, and upper body. You can simulate trekking conditions by taking regular hikes with a heavy backpack. It is also highly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the mountaineering gear. You can practice using an ice axe, ice screws, crampons, harnesses, etc.
You also need to be mentally prepared for the climb. Do your research and be mentally prepared for the long walks, weather changes, difficult climbs, and mental stress of climbing on a high elevation. Be ready to cope with the physical and mental challenges that you can come across during the Mera Peak climbing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can beginners climb Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is the highest permitted trekking peak that is suitable for beginners. However, climbers need to have a good level of physical fitness. They also should be physically and mentally prepared for long treks, ascending, and descending on varied terrains.
Is Mera Peak a technical climb?
Mera Peak is a non-technical climb that requires basic mountaineering skills and experience. The trekking peak requires climbers to ascent and descent on varied terrain including snow and ice slopes. Climbers have to be comfortable with using basic mountaineering gear.
Can you see Mount Everest from Mera Peak?
Yes, you will be able to witness the majestic panoramic view of mountains including Mount Everest. Note that the visibility can be excellent or worse depending on the weather conditions. On clear days, you can view Mount Everest along with Mount Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and many more.
Is Mera Peak trek or climb?
Mera Peak is a trekking peak. It means that it involves both trekking and climbing. Up to base camp, you will have to trek. From there on, you need to climb to reach the Mera Peak summit. It is an ideal destination for trekkers to introduce themselves to mountaineering.
Do I need permits to climb Mera Peak?
Yes, you need several permits to climb Mera Peak. These include TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System), Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, and Mera Peak Climbing Permit. Himalayan Leaders’ Mera Peak Trek package includes all the permits.
Note: B=Breakfast, L= Lunch, D=Dinner